Lipsticks have become a staple product in most makeup bags and have evolved to be more durable, comfortable to wear and transfer resistant. Some even have added anti-ageing and lip plumping benefits. These makeup products are almost every woman’s go to for an affordable beauty fix, particularly during economic decline.
Phoenix Chemical develops proprietary and unique chemical technologies and ingredients to create quality lipstick products. Its ingredients also ensure lipsticks meet the performance and colour payoff required by consumers with darker skin tones. Phoenix Chemical’s technologies are not only suitable for lipstick applications but also cosmetics, personal care products and OTC pharma products.
The company has expanded into a multinational organisation with agents worldwide, allowing Phoenix Chemical to serve customers globally. In South Africa, Essential Specialised Products is the exclusive agent and distributor for Phoenix Chemical.
Quality lipstick technology
Esters, whether synthetic or vegetable derived, are key ingredients in lipstick formulations. They have multifunctional properties including solvency, pigment wetting, lubricious substantivity, superior cushion, gloss, emolliency and spreadability as well as the benefit of moisturisation.
The ester Pelemol BB is formed when behenic acid reacts with behenyl alcohol. It is completely vegetable derived with an off-white appearance and is sold as a 100 percent active oil soluble flake. When introduced into the oil phase of an emulsion, Pelemol BB will build viscosity at low solids for a richer feel, making it a very cost-effective ester.
Siloxane waxes and superior esters
Siloxane waxes form a large component of lipstick formulations. The Pecosil AS-A series from Phoenix Chemical includes a range of alkyl or alkyl aryl polydimethyll siloxane waxes. The alkyl or alkyl/aryl functionality varies to produce waxes of different consistency which are used to modify feel and other properties important in a lipstick. For example, Pecosil AS improves mould release for lipstick during manufacturing and imparts high gloss in lipsticks when used in conjunction with Pecosil ARS-09.
Phoenix Chemical Pelemol DP-144B is said to be a truly unique polyester. The product was developed through the outcome of a chemical reaction between dipentaerythritol, tetrapolyhydroxystearic acid and behenic acid. Pelemol DP-144B is 100 percent active, tacky and substantive. It will hold three times its weight in water and is a superior lipstick ester, producing moisturisation and occlusive humectancy. Compared to a lanolin-based lipstick, this polyester product increases the melting point of a lipstick by five degrees Celsius, without compromising on its velvety finish or payoff.
Pigment dispersion and transfer resistance
Another ingredient developed by way of a chemical reaction, Pelemol T91854 is a polymeric ester principally composed of the product produced when isostearyl alcohol reacts with trilinoleic acid. It is a dark amber, tasteless liquid with virtually no odour. Pelemol T91854 has high emolliency and is extremely glossy on skin. These properties strongly suggest it could be used as an effective pigment dispersant in lipsticks and other lip products, like glosses or stains.
With Phoenix Chemical’s products, you can formulate a moisturising lipstick with a velvety finish, or one with high gloss and excellent payoff. But what about transfer resistance? Phoenix Chemical produces a range of Giovarez film formers. Each has a slightly different property, yet their key benefit is they dry to glossy water-insoluble films, making them highly effective in transfer-resistant lipstick systems.