An extraordinary molecule for even tone skin

Lipochroman™ (INCI: Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol) by Lubrizol Life Science Beauty is a bio-inspired molecule and antioxidant active ingredient with proven efficacy in improving skin tone.

Chronological or photo-induced ageing, hormonal disorders (from contraceptives, pregnancy, menopause etc.), repeated sun exposure and inflammation (caused by acne or eczema) can all lead to the appearance of skin pigmentary problems.

Reactive species have high chemical reactivity and can be based on oxygen (ROS), nitrogen (RNS) or carbonyl (RCS). When these reactive species accumulate in the skin, they may damage skin cells and structural components to contribute to the development of dark spots as well as other signs of skin ageing like wrinkles and loss of elasticity.

An extraordinary molecule for even tone skin
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol by Lubrizol Life Science Beauty is a bio-inspired molecule and antioxidant active ingredient with proven efficacy in improving skin tone

Though hyperpigmentation can affect everyone, people with darker skin tones are more prone to it because they have more reactive melanocytes. These are the pigment-producing cells. The darker the skin type – Fitzpatrick skin types 3 or higher – the more likely an inflammatory process such as irritation or injury will result in the development of excess pigment during the healing process. This is also why hyperpigmentation is more severe and more difficult to treat in darker skins.

To avoid the deleterious effects of reactive species, the skin possesses a system of endogenous defenses, such as low-molecular-weight antioxidants, co-enzyme Q10 and vitamins C and E, which directly quench ROS.1 Additionally, there are small proline-rich repeat proteins (SPRRs), located in the stratum corneum, which have a direct role in scavenging ROS.2 Skin cells also rely on enzymatic detoxification systems that are responsible for the removal of ROS and xenobiotics.

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Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, which is commercially available as an oil-soluble powder or as a water-soluble ingredient, is a powerful bio-inspired antioxidant that can offer triple protection against ROS, RNS and RCS. Indeed, both cosmetic active ingredients demonstrate outstanding antioxidative properties in an aqueous solution, even compared to vitamin C (see Figure 1). In addition, the active ingredient can boost the cell’s processes of detoxification of toxic substances coming both from the interior of the body and external environment.

Thanks to the combined mechanism of action, the active ingredient can help to improve skin’s appearance. This was measured on a panel of 20 female volunteers (33 to 57 years old), who applied a cream containing 0.05% Lipochroman molecule or a placebo in a half-face experiment.

Lipochroman molecule can improve skin tone in only 14 days

Total antioxidative capacity of the skin

The ferric-reducing antioxidant power (FRAP) assay is used as an index of the capability of the skin to resist oxidative damage. The measurements were performed in epidermal samples taken by tape stripping.

In the skin of volunteers that applied a cream containing the active ingredient, the antioxidative capacity increased by 21.3% and 36.7% after 14 and 28 days respectively. By improving its internal antioxidative properties, skin can better defend itself against oxidative stress.

Figure 1: Using the Cuprac method, the total antioxidant capacity (TAC) was measured to determine antioxidative capacity. Both Lipochroman molecule and Lipochroman AQO molecule demonstrated outstanding antioxidative properties in an aqueous solution

Improvements in skin tone

The intensity of melanin within dark spots was measured using a spectrophotometer and by determining the individual typological angle (ITA⁰). ITA⁰ values increased after 14 and 28 days of treatment, indicating a reduction in pigmentation or darkness of the skin and thus an improvement in the appearance of dark spots, compared to the placebo.

Improvements in skin tone were also demonstrated in a second clinical study, specifically in Asian skin types. Here, the melanin index in the skin of the volunteers was measured by mexametry after 14, 28 and 56 days. On average, the melanin index was reduced significantly by 6.9% in only 14 days. It continued to improve at 56 days, with an average reduction of 13.3% (see Figure 2). These results suggest that Lipochroman molecule can improve skin tone in only 14 days.

Figure 2: After 14, 28 and 56 days, the melanin index in the skin of the volunteers was reduced, suggesting an improved skin tone

Available throughout Southern Africa from Savannah Fine Chemicals, both forms of Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol demonstrate outstanding antioxidative properties, even compared to common benchmark products, which help it to boost the skin’s antioxidative properties while offering even tone skin care benefits.

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Lubrizol Life Science Beauty

References:

  1. Briganti S, Picardo M. Antioxidant activity, lipid peroxidation and skin diseases. What’s new. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 17(6): 663-9, 2003
  2. Vermeij WP1, Alia A, Backendorf C. ROS quenching potential of the epidermal cornified cell envelope. J Invest Dermatol. 131(7):1435-41, 2011.

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