Botanichem explores the evolution of stick-based formulations

Stick-based skin care is one of the most popular trends emerging from the K Beauty movement. This trend has driven leading manufacturers like Sunjin Beauty Science to improve its formulations, including sunscreens.

Sun protection products have evolved from basic creams and emulsions, to gels, sprays and more recently stick formats which allow for quick, easy application. The latest sunscreen sticks are even more sophisticated and incorporate innovative technology for enhanced efficacy and greater skin care benefits.

A women wearing a hat and glasses for sun protection
Sun protection products have evolved from creams and lotions to solid stick formats

Generations of stick formulations

According to Botanichem, the South African agent of the Korean ingredient manufacturer, Sunjin Beauty Science, the first generation of stick formulations were made using only oils. These solid-format skin care products left a sticky residue on skin making them uncomfortable to use.

The next generation was also mainly oil-based but contained water-soluble ingredients in the form of microbeads, which were added to the formulation to give it extra properties such as a mattifying effect.

The third generation of sticks saw the development of the first two-phase water-in-oil emulsion stick. This formulation incorporated sodium stearate – an aqueous gelling agent traditionally used in solid deodorants and fragrance sticks. Although this generation was an improvement on previous stick products, there were foaming and hardening issues, mainly due to the softness of the sodium stearate. The pH for hardening should be in the range of 8 to 10 which is too high for a facial product.

A sun stick formulation guide developed by Sunjin Beauty Science
A transparent w/o waterdrop sun stick formulation by Sunjin Beauty Science

Hectorite technology with ceramides

The latest generation of sunscreen sticks developed by Sunjin Beauty Science are true emulsion sticks formulated with MLB. This ingredient is a special blend of an extremely stable water/oil emulsifier containing plolyglyceryl-4 isostearate, coco-/caprylate/caprate, disteadimonium hectorite, polyglyceryl -3 polyrincinoleate and sorbitan isostearate.

Robyn Brown of Botanichem says that emulsion sticks which use water are more economical. They are also offer increased hydration as opposed to sticks which only use oils and waxes. They are considerably less tacky and water resistant.

“To impart even more hydration and moisturisation in a stick formulation, Sunjin has developed a hectorite blend containing ceramides. Ceramides are the ‘glue’ that hold together skin’s cells and help to reduce TEWL. They also help maintain good barrier function and skin’s moisture content,” explains Brown. “Ceraplex contains squalene, ceramides and phytosterols to help repair very dry and damaged skin. As the ceramides are part of the hectorite technology, they are fully stabilised. Hectorites also help stabilise formulations as well as impart a beautiful skin feel.”

These fourth-generation skin care sticks are incredibly versatile and can be used in various applications, including lipsticks, moisture sticks, BB sticks as well as sunscreen sticks.



Latest


08 Mar 2021
Making clean beauty products with Büchi

‘Green’ is in as a cosmetics industry trend. ‘Paraben-free’ has become one of the most common label claims, but if…

Making clean beauty products with Büchi

‘Green’ is in as a cosmetics industry trend. ‘Paraben-free’ has become one of the most common label claims, but if cosmetics are made without a proper substitute for this preservative then the finished product may have a chance of microbial contamination. Instead of focusing so intensely on labels that tend…

04 Mar 2021
DSM extends its hyaluronic acid range with three new forms

Royal DSM, a global science-based company active in nutrition, health and sustainable living, has launched three different forms of hyaluronic…

DSM extends its hyaluronic acid range with three new forms

Royal DSM, a global science-based company active in nutrition, health and sustainable living, has launched three different forms of hyaluronic acid. With the new HYA-ACT range, DSM strengthens its hyaluronic acid portfolio to deliver on growing market expectations for less-invasive, reliable and effective beauty care solutions. The changing face of…

03 Mar 2021
When it comes to male grooming, less is more

If there’s anything the past year has taught us – it is that less is more. For most of us,…

When it comes to male grooming, less is more

If there’s anything the past year has taught us – it is that less is more. For most of us, our world has been reduced to our homes. We’re living, working and exercising in one space, and that space needs to be decluttered if we want to maintain a sense…

03 Mar 2021
Evonik recognised as a leading pharma contract manufacturer

For the fourth year running, Evonik – one of the world’s largest contract development and manufacturing organisations (CDMO) for active…

Evonik recognised as a leading pharma contract manufacturer

For the fourth year running, Evonik – one of the world’s largest contract development and manufacturing organisations (CDMO) for active pharmaceutical ingredients (APIs) and advanced intermediates – has been recognised as a recipient of the 2021 CMO Leadership Awards across all six categories. Winners are chosen through market research based…


Top stories


30 Nov 2017
Rooibos could reduce risk of “Type 3” diabetes – a precursor to Alzheimer’s

Researchers at Warren Alpert Medical School at Brown University in the US found a link between a relatively new form…

Rooibos could reduce risk of “Type 3” diabetes – a precursor to Alzheimer’s

Researchers at Warren Alpert Medical School at Brown University in the US found a link between a relatively new form of diabetes, known as “type 3” diabetes and Alzheimer’s disease.

25 Jun 2020
How to ensure business agility in a pandemic

BY: Neil Birch, CEO at Novus Holdings Business agility is the capability of a business to respond quickly to a…

How to ensure business agility in a pandemic

BY: Neil Birch, CEO at Novus Holdings Business agility is the capability of a business to respond quickly to a changing environment, whether it be internal or external. Qualities of agile businesses include being adaptive, flexible and creative in your response to change without losing momentum (remaining productive) or vision.…

01 May 2020
Fibertex manufactures critical components for COVID-19 PPE

Fibertex SA, part of the global Fibertex Nonwovens group, has developed versatile high-performance components for protective facemasks and respirators. “Fibertex,…

Fibertex manufactures critical components for COVID-19 PPE

Fibertex SA, part of the global Fibertex Nonwovens group, has developed versatile high-performance components for protective facemasks and respirators. “Fibertex, which continuously invests in technological advancements to meet requirements in diverse industries – has increased production capacity of materials so desperately needed during the global COVID-19 pandemic,” explains Rosa Naidoo,…

23 Apr 2020
Are you South Africa’s best female entrepreneur?

Entries are now open for the Santam Women of the Future Awards 2020 in association with Fairlady and True Love.…

Are you South Africa’s best female entrepreneur?

Entries are now open for the Santam Women of the Future Awards 2020 in association with Fairlady and True Love. Santam, Fairlady and, for the first time this year, Truelove Magazine, have partnered up in the search to find the best female entrepreneurs in the country. Best women entrepreneurs If…


Visit the official COVID-19 government website to stay informed: sacoronavirus.co.za