The ingredient ectoin is emerging as a promising addition to the arsenal of skincare actives, heralding a new era in cosmetic science. By Natalie Gerhardt of Multichem Sourcing
This bioactive peptide has been the subject of research for over 30 years. In 1985, professor Galinski discovered that halophilic bacteria, thriving in extreme environments like the salt lakes of the Egyptian desert, produced a natural protective component (ectoin) in the outer layer of their cells. Also known as salt-tolerant bacteria extract, this component is an amino acid derivative with an extremolytes pressure protection factor.
Extremolytes, small stress-protection molecules, serve as a protective shield for the bacteria to help them adapt to extreme environments, protecting against dehydration, extreme temperatures, and environmental factors. Three decades later, ectoin is finding application in enzyme preparation, biomedicine, skincare products and more.
Nowadays, the compound is obtained through advanced biotechnological processes, ensuring the extraction of a pure and potent ingredient in alignment with the growing demand for eco-friendly alternatives. The key lies in extracting ectoin from sustainably cultivated plants rich in bioactive compounds. Through an advanced and environmentally conscious manufacturing process, the selected plant materials undergo enzymatic hydrolysis, yielding a concentrated extract that serves as the foundation for ectoin. This extraction method guarantees the preservation of the plant’s beneficial compounds and ensures the overall sustainability of the production process.
Subsequent purification and refinement stages employ state-of-the-art technologies, eliminating impurities and isolating ectoin in its purest form. The result is a potent, biocompatible peptide with exceptional skincare properties, setting it apart as a valuable addition to cosmetic formulations.
Why is ectoin so beneficial?
Ectoin’s appeal lies in its multifaceted benefits, which address many skincare concerns and are substantiated by recent clinical trials. With its highly polar molecular structure, ectoin exhibits strong water molecular complexation ability. It forms an ectoin water complex, wrapping around cells, enzymes, proteins and biomolecules to create a hydrating shell. This shield protects, nourishes and stabilises these elements, reducing skin moisture loss and safeguarding against external aggressors like UV radiation, pollutants, allergens and alternating environmental conditions.
Ectoin brings the following to skincare formulations:
- Anti-ageing properties – by promoting collagen synthesis and improving skin elasticity. Clinical trials reveal a noticeable reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, making ectoin invaluable for formulations targeting age-related skin concerns.
- Moisture retention – It enhances skin hydration, preventing dehydration and promoting a supple and radiant complexion. Formulations incorporating Ectoin exhibit improved moisture retention, making it an ideal choice for combating dryness and maintaining optimal skin hydration levels.
- Antioxidant defence – Ectoin showcases potent antioxidant properties, safeguarding skin from the damaging effects of free radicals. By bolstering skin’s natural defence mechanisms, it contributes to a more resilient and protected complexion.
- Skin regeneration – Clinical trials highlight the ingredient’s role in supporting skin regeneration processes. Formulations enriched with ectoin accelerate healing, addressing scars, blemishes and other imperfections for a smoother and more even skin tone.
Efficacy substantiation
Experimental results show that a 1% ectoin water solution increases skin water content and reduces transdermal water loss within seven hours, indicating excellent moisturising ability. In vitro studies on collagen regeneration reveal that ectoin promotes collagen secretion in fibroblasts in a concentration-dependent manner, suggesting its potential to repair skin damage and delay ageing.
In vivo anti-ageing studies with 1% ectoin cream show a significant improvement in wrinkles and skin elasticity, reinforcing its anti-ageing effect. In vitro anti-allergy studies demonstrate that ectoin inhibits hyaluronidase, indicating anti-allergy effects. Additionally, in vitro anti-inflammatory studies show that it inhibits the release of inflammatory cytokines, suggesting ectoin’s potent anti-inflammatory effect.
Studies have also shown a good cell repair ability, which is the positive effect of soothing and removing redness and the ability to brighten skin tone.
Ectoin in South Africa
Locally, Multichem Sourcing is already importing this active ingredient and two prominent local players are currently developing skincare products soon be out on the market.
As the momentum behind ectoin continues to build, the industry finds itself on the cusp of a transformative era, where science and nature meet to create products that can exceed consumer expectations for effective and environmentally conscious skincare solutions.
