The bold and the beautiful on show

IncosmeticsIn-cosmetics 2015 brings global beauty industry trends to life at the Gran Via Exhibition Centre from 14 to 16 April, in Barcelona, Spain. Visitors to the show can look forward to the very latest in innovation, exclusive research and consumer insight from suppliers and manufacturers worldwide.

A diverse mix of more than 680 top manufacturers from over 40 countries are set to join about 8 000 personal care professionals, to discover new ingredients and formulations at the 25th edition of the show. Visitors and exhibitors will also be able to capitalise on networking opportunities, marketing seminars and educational workshops to remain ahead of the trends driving scientific innovation in the global cosmetics industry.

Cathy Laporte, in-cosmetics exhibition manager, comments: ‘In-cosmetics 2015 isn’t just the ideal showcase for the latest products and ingredients, it is also an ideas factory where like-minded professionals can exchange knowledge and catch-up on trends affecting their businesses now, as well as those likely to have an impact in coming months. This year’s line-up of demonstrations, seminars, workshops and round-tables is second to none with more to be announced leading up to the show.’

Turkey and the Middle East 

Following the success of last year’s focus on Brazil, 2015 will see attention turn to Turkey and the Middle East with a dedicated feature exploring what the regions have to offer. 

According to TechNavio, global Halal cosmetics and the personal care market will grow at a CAGR of 13.43 per cent over the period 2013/18. This strong growth can be attributed to the rise in the world’s Muslim population and continued strong demand from Malaysia and Indonesia – the two largest Halal beauty markets worldwide. 

The in-cosmetics 2015 educational programme includes a marketing trends presentation from Dr Yavuz Özoguz of Halal certification specialists, M-Haditec, offering insight into the rise of Halal products and forecasts for growth, plus a guide to the complex area of certification. Euromonitor International will also examine the region’s key trends, sharing statistics in the global beauty market presentation, while Mintel will focus on Middle Eastern Beauty Rituals and products from the region as part of its product demonstrations. 

A Turkey and Middle East product trail will also highlight unique products and projects from or inspired by the region, while ingredients manufacturers from the country, including Surya Kimya, and others from bordering regions will be hosted on a special pavilion. 

New launches from Croda (Stand 6D40)

Showcasing its latest product launches and initiatives, Croda, a global specialty chemical company for the personal care, home care, functional specialties, health care and manufacturing industries is highlighting three novel ingredients. 

DuraQuench IQ SA is the company’s innovative approach to effective moisturisation for the skin and scalp. It helps to reinforce the skin’s natural barrier and deliver up to 72-hours of visible moisturisation and is also effective in wash-off systems, where it provides additional sensorial benefits. New data shows it can also deliver effective scalp moisturisation and hair conditioning benefits. 

Developed using the latest advances in proteomics, Kerestore 2.0 is proven to offer targeted repair to the most damaged areas of the hair’s surface. According to the company, the amino acid sequences of the peptides in Kerestore 2.0 match those in keratin proteins found in human hair. New data again demonstrates Kerestore 2.0 can greatly improve the sensory properties of wet hair without impacting its final dry appearance or feel. 

Inspired by the East and in line with the Middle Eastern focus of the show, Cithrol 10GTIS is a highly effective and mild surfactant used to create luxurious advanced facial cleansers, utilising skin care oils to gently and efficiently cleanse and soften the skin, while being rinsed off easily with water. Cithrol 10 GTIS allows the formulation of crystal clear facial cleansers made up of oil and water in a microemulsion, maintaining the perfect hydro-lipophilic balance required for this type of high performance system. 

In the spotlight with Gattefossé (Stand 7K30)

Developed in response to age-related pigmentation problems, Gatuline Spot-Light from Gattfossé is said to be the first ingredient that targets the causes of age spots in both epidermal and dermal levels, using a combined action that leads to high efficacy in anti-ageing products when clinically tested against a placebo. 

Obtained from Sophora flavescens and Kiwi fruit, a targeted extraction technique is used to optimise the concentration in two key molecules, Sophoraflavanone G and Matrine. Gatuline Spot-Light targets melanin synthesis and boosts the natural desquamation process. It protects against symptoms related to photo-aged dermal fibroblasts – the influence of which on pigmentation is now recognised. It also protects the extracellular matrix and the fibroblast environment from degradation by matrix metalloproteinases and it inhibits glycation. 

According to Gattfossé, the value and benefits of Gatuline Spot-Light are visible to consumers in a brighter skin complexion with less visible age spots. This ‘safe ingredient is respectful of the planet, and treats and protects throughout the skin layers’. Its efficacy is demonstrated through clinical testing in a double blind study with a large panel size and all measurements are made in comparison with a placebo. Over 90 per cent of panelists confirmed the decreased visibility of age spots. Gatuline Spot-Light is available in South Africa from Carst & Walker

Dr. Straetmans’ whitening active (Stand 7H60)

At in-cosmetics 2015, Dr. Straetmans will introduce an emulsifier blend for rich oil in water (O/W) emulsions, as well as a new skin care active. 

Symbiomuls rich is an innovative natural emulsifier blend which the ingredient manufacturer says ‘offers everything a formulator needs to develop cosmetics of exceptional performance with a caring sensorial profile’. This blend is an effective and easy to use emulsifier for O/W emulsions of mainly higher viscosities, rich textures and for a nourishing skin feel. 

Dermofeel enlight is Dr. Straetmans’ new natural and effective whitening active. This blend is based on phytic acid and mulberry extract with in vivo-proven activity. It is especially suitable for natural age spot correction applications and skin whitening products. 

These new launches and other innovative products from Dr. Straetmans are available in South Africa from Meganede

Sustainability central to Earthoil (Stand 6C14) 

Oil sourced from the Rwanda’s Moringa plant is rich in antioxidants and can be used in skin and hair care applications

Visitors to Earthoil’s stand will learn more about the story behind its Moringa, Pomegranate and Baobab oils, as the company demonstrates its ongoing commitment to ethical and fair trading from 100 per cent traceable sources. 

Offering exceptional moisturising properties, Moringa oil is rich in antioxidants and can be used in skin and hair care applications. Earthoil is currently developing a new, sustainable source of this cold pressed vegetable seed oil from Rwanda, with the support of a major partner. Known as the ‘miracle tree’, the Moringa has the potential to become a vital source of income to poor communities in the country’s more arid and less productive regions, where families have previously struggled to afford clothes, schooling and other essential items. 

The company’s Pomegranate oil originates from Turkey and is produced by drying and cold pressing the seeds of the fruit at its Kenyan pressing plant. With wide-ranging benefits to skin and hair, pomegranate oil delivers a pleasant, nutty aroma and has been featured in a number of recent product launches. The high levels of punicic acid – a conjugated lipid – make it particularly suitable for use in anti-ageing products. Pomegranate oil has also shown to nourish, moisturise and repair the epidermis and to improve skin’s elasticity. It can also be used to condition dry hair. 

Earthoil’s Baobab oil is sourced from the Kenyan coastal plains where Baobab fruit is hand-harvested in remote regions. The company cold presses the hard seed at its Kenyan processing facility to produce a golden oil rich in vitamin A, D, E, oleic acid, linoleic acid and omega 3, 6 and 9 fatty acids. These properties contribute to its moisturising, emollient and soothing benefits. 

Science of beauty with Evonik (Stand 6B40)

As one of the world’s leading specialists in ingredients and concepts for effective skin, hair and body care products, Evonik’s personal care business line will use in-cosmetics 2015 to showcase several innovations. 

The manufacturer will be introducing a comprehensive portfolio of actives based on ceramide technology and a new leave-on formulation concept, helping formulators to expand their methodology and process flexibility by using efficient natural emulsifiers. Evonik will also introduce its new Emulsifier selection tool, which has been developed to assist formulators in quickly and easily selecting the right emulsifier for their unique requirements. Another beauty innovation that will be highlighted is Varisoft EQ 100, a novel premium hair conditioning agent with exceptional performance and pronounced sustainability features. 

While each innovation is unique, they share a combination of scientific excellence and sensitivity to the needs of cosmetics manufacturers and consumers. 

Solabia revitalises tired hair (Stand 7K70)

By combining two ‘super leaves’ known for their hair care benefits and rich sulphur and mineral content, the Solabia group has produced a single active ingredient. Cressatine, which will be showcased at the show, is an active obtained as an aqueous extract from the leaves and shoots of watercress (Nasturtium officinale) and Indian cress (Tropaeolum majus). 

According to Vantage Specialty Chemicals, which distributes Solabia’s products and solutions throughout South Africa, Cressatine works on all three phases of hair growth. It strengthens from the root i.e. the added sulphur and minerals help build high-quality keratin, which means stronger hair right from the bulb. It also initiates regeneration and stimulates growth through a signal transmitted by the dermal papilla which involves the Wnt pathway in activating the stem cells in the bulge, which causes them to migrate and form the matrix that will be used to produce new hair. Wnt is a family of glycoproteins, which combine Wg (wingless) and Int (integration site). Activating the Wnt/β-catenin pathway triggers the release of Keratinocyte Growth Factor (KGF), which stimulates keratinocyte differentiation and thus hair growth while also defining the hair’s shape. 

Cressatine also prolongs the growth phase. Together the activated Wnt pathway and presence of KGF slow the hair follicle’s transition into the catagen or death phase. Active from 0.25 per cent, samples and literature are available locally from Vantage Specialty Chemicals. 

Stem cell actives from Mibelle (Stand 7E40)

Leaves of the basil plant. Mibelle is cultivating in basil roots in a large-scale bioreactor to develop RootBioTec HO

Mibelle Biochemistry, represented in South Africa by Carst & Walker, will present PhytoCellTec nunatak, its latest stem cell active based on a plant that is said to have survived the Ice Age. While most other species became extinct, the alpine flower (Saponaria pumila) survived 10 000 years on ice-free mountain peaks, called nunataks. These nunatak plants are highly resistant to environmental challenges such as extreme temperatures and UV-exposure. 

The plant cell culture technology, PhytoCellTec, was used to sustainably produce Saponaria pumila cells, and is based on the unlimited proliferation potential of dedifferentiated, stem cell-like plant cells.  

According to Mibelle, PhytoCellTec nunatak has been tested on isolated human dermal stem cells and was found to provide protection against the UV-induced loss of stem cell characteristics. In a placebo-controlled clinical trial with 20 subjects, the active ingredient significantly improved skin elasticity, firmness and density after four weeks of treatment. 

Mibelle will also launch RootBioTec HO at in-cosmetics 2015. This potent basil hairy root extract is suited for products claiming ‘fuller and denser hair’. RootBioTec HO is based on ‘hairy roots’, a novel and sustainable technology where basil roots are cultivated in a large-scale bioreactor.  

In a clinical study, RootBioTec HO successfully reduced hair loss by inhibiting 5α reductase II activity and by stimulating the dermal papilla cells in hair follicles. It also significantly reduced hair loss by 31 per cent after only two months of application. 

Natural actives from Greentech (Stand A40)

Greentech’s photobioreactor with continuous flow where microalgae is grownCaption and alt-text: Greentech’s photobioreactor with continuous flow where microalgae is grown

Maintaining its leading position in supplying innovative active ingredients to the global cosmetics industry, Greentech Biotechnologies will present new skin care solutions at in-cosmetics 2015 developed specifically to ‘preserve beauty’. 

These include: 

  • An anti-ageing active that acts on skin micro relief – this is an isolated and purified natural bioactive fraction. Its main effects are visible on the structure and texture of the skin.
  • An intense solar protector, which guards skin cells, particularly stem cells, from UV attacks.
  • The Aqualys range of hydro-soluble vegetable oils grafted by green biotechnology. These natural oils are perfectly solubilised in an aqueous phase without the use of solubilising or emulsifying agents. Their environmental impact is lowered as there is no need to use polyethylene glycols, which also reduces skin irritancy. 

Natchem is the sole distributor of Greentech’s products and solutions in South Africa. 

Rahn’s innovative moisturiser (Stand 7G60)

Inspired by the longevity of forests and their clever management of moisture, Hydractin-LMF by Rahn is said to be a symbiotic combination of three forest plants: Iceland moss (lichen Cetraria islandica), the fern (Polypodium vulgare), and peat moss (Sphagnum magellanicum). 

This anti-ageing moisturiser claims to retain and store water, and boosts the skin’s natural moisturising factor. It also ‘turns back the skin’s biological clock’. According to Rahn, after two weeks of use in a skin care formulation, skin becomes approximately 10 years younger; after four weeks it gains 20 years of youthfulness’. 

Hydractin-LMF is also suited to foot care formulations for stressed, cornified and cracked skin on feet. 

The efficacy of the active ingredient has been proven in several studies to: 

  • shield and rehydrate skin (ex vivo)
  • rejuvenate skin by roughly 20 years within four weeks (in vivo)
  • smoothe, moisturise and revive feet (in vivo)
  • supply and retain water (anecdotal in vivo)

Subsequent to its launch, Hydractin-LMF will be available in South Africa from Siyeza Fine Chemicals. The active conforms to Ecocert requirements and can be considered China-compliant. 

Multiethnic skin care from Silab (Stand 6F20)

The wild rose berry. Silab is harnessing its flavonoids for Sebocytine

Oily skin affects both men and women. According to Silab, which is represented in South Africa by Meganede, oily skin can be both unsightly and uncomfortable, resulting in increased shine and a lack of radiance, and is often accompanied by dilated pores. 

Inspired by recent advances in sebocyte biology, Silab has created Sebocytine, a sebum-regulating active ingredient rich in wild rose berry flavonoids, which improves the comfort of oily Caucasian and Asian skins. 

The active ingredient is said to limit the differentiation and lipogenesis of human sebocytes cultivated in 2D and 3D models, thus reducing sebum secretion.

Sebocytine has been tested on a panel of male and female volunteers, and was found to normalise sebum production, tighten pores and control shine. For an improved matte complexion and tightened pores, Sebocytine is recommended in all mattifying and anti-blemish skin care products, to improve comfort for combination to oily skin types. 

Expansion plans for Daito (Stand 7S80) 

A leading manufacturer of surface treated pigments for colour cosmetics and ingredients for personal care applications, Daito Kasei Kyogo will launch a natural solubiliser for microemulsions. 

Daito Kasei Europe, a subsidiary located in France, has set up a distribution network to provide a technical support worldwide. This network spans Europe, South America and South Africa through a recently established collaboration agreement with Carst & Walker

The group will also promote its expansion plans at in-cosmetics 2015 which includes the launch of a factory, Daito Kasei Industry France, during the second quarter of the year. This factory will be its first to be established outside of Japan. 

Fragrance Zone

This year’s in-cosmetics will also feature more than 30 perfume and fragrance exhibitors, including Cosmo International Fragrance, Iberchem and new exhibitors, Luzi and Sensient Fragrances. They join the likes of personal care ingredient giants BASF, Bayer, Dow Europe and Evonik, among others, which will be showcasing their latest innovations and new product developments. 

Antonia Trevisan, group marketing and communications manager at Elixens, a returning exhibitor to the show’s Fragrance Zone says: ‘We consider in-cosmetics our number one event with the opportunity to showcase both our aromatic raw materials and fragrance compounding. It also gives us the chance to engage with many contacts and potential clients.’

The fragrance industry will also be represented in the in-cosmetics marketing trends presentations. Mintel’s fragrance and personal care analyst, Emmanuelle Moeglin will take to the stage to discuss the use of scent in beauty, personal care and household products, and the role it plays when formulating and positioning products in markets around the globe. 

Awarding the industry’s best

The finest suppliers in the global industry will be recognised at the annual awards ceremony. This includes the winners of Innovation Zone Best Ingredient, the Green Ingredient Award, plus a new award to celebrate 25 years of innovation which will recognise the ingredients that have made the greatest long-term impact on the personal care industry. 

The Beiersdorf Innovation Pitch will also return to in-cosmetics 2015 with the manufacturer selecting three outstanding exhibitors at the show. 

To find out more about in-cosmetics, the exhibitors, education seminars and other show features, or to register to attend the event, visit www.in-cosmetics.com