in-cosmetics Global announces awards shortlist

The organisers of in-cosmetics received over 180 entries for the 2022 awards, making this the most popular year yet. In-cosmetics is the world’s leading personal care ingredients show.

The shortlist for the 2022 awards highlights the latest ingredient innovations – which combine pioneering science and product features in a way that demonstrates substantial benefits to manufacturers and end-users when compared to existing ingredients.  

In a record-breaking year for innovation, over 180 entries were submitted across four categories, with almost 50 being shortlisted in the four different categories. These include:

  1. Innovation Zone Active Ingredient
  2. Innovation Zone Functional Ingredient
  3. Innovation Zone Green Ingredient
  4. Innovation Zone Rising Star

The winners will be announced when the show returns to the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles from 5 to 7 April. Unlike previous years, virtual presentations will see the winners presented their trophies on their stands, announced on social media and the in-cosmetics Global virtual platform. The live exhibition will also be followed followed by a virtual event from 11 to 22 April. Click here for more information and to register to attend.

A scene from a previous in-cosmetics Global trade show, which took place before the outbreak of COVID-19
A scene from a previous in-cosmetics Global trade show, which took place before the outbreak of COVID-19

Commenting on the 2022 Innovation Zone Awards shortlist, one of the judges, Luis Allo, Director for External Innovation at Johnson and Johnson said: “As a judging panel, we were seriously impressed by the level of innovation put forward for these awards. The depth of research, quality of thinking and the brilliant science that has gone into these ingredients is truly wonderful and we were genuinely excited about the future of the industry during the judging process. We are very much looking forward to seeing what the future holds for these ingredients.”

The judging panel for this year’s Innovation Zone Awards included: Armelle Berthier, R&D project manager, Yves Rocher; Dr Barbara Brockway, Scientific Advisor, Personal Care industry and Trustee, Fellow & Hon. Member, and Past President of the Society Of Cosmetic Scientists (SCS); Dr. Andrea Mitarotonda, PhD CChem FRSC, Independent Consultant in Cosmetic Chemistry; Hugo Tanner, Innovation Raw Material Manager, L’OREAL; Lorna Radford, MD, Enkos Developments; Luis Allo, Director External Innovation, Johnson & Johnson; Muriel Pujos, Innovation Ingredients Director, Innovation & Technologies Department, R&D Monaco, COTY and Thierry Oddos, Director R&D, Johnson & Johnson.

Innovation Zone Active Ingredient Award

Shortlisted in this category are:

Chromazone™ by Normactive: Featuring upcycled pomegranate pericarp extract, Chromazone™ is a natural active ingredient in a liposome-based formulation designed to protect hair against colour bleeding as well as damaging aggressors like UV rays by its potent antioxidant content. With its high affinity to keratin, Chromazone™ forms a film layer on the hair cuticle and locates in the cortex by passing through the cuticle thanks to its submicron particle size.

Skin’calm by Berkem: Skin’calm is an acacia extract of flowers from Acacia plantations in France. Developed using ingredients of 100% natural origin, Skin’calm is rich in sugars and polyphenols. It fights against some skin disorders by soothing the skin, rebalancing its pH, and correcting imperfections.

Sphinox® Defenda by Evonik: Sphinox® Defenda is a protective agent. It is an innovative bioactive sphingolipid, a unique derivative of the naturally occurring phytosphingosine which offers various skin defense and protection benefits. It accelerates skin regeneration due to DNA protection and re-balances skin tone after summer stress. It provides anti-oxidative properties, daylight defense on a cellular (DNA) level and fights environmental aggressions.

Suga®Det LSDG by Colonial Chemical: Suga®Det LSDG is a liquid blend of a mild, high foam sulfosuccinate and a mild, high foam alkylpolyglucoside. The sulfosuccinate portion is normally supplied as a semisolid paste, so this blend is especially useful for formulators incorporating this potentially tricky to dispense product or those interested in reducing the carbon footprint of their manufacturing by designing cold-mix formulations.

Wastar™ Pink Berry by IFF – Lucas Meyer Cosmetics: Wastar™ Pink Berry was designed as an upcycled botanical extract rich in biflavonoids to soothe irritated scalps. By valorising pink berry by-products left after the extraction of IFF fragrance compounds, Wastar™ Pink Berry perfectly answers the upcycling trend as it combines sustainable sourcing in Madagascar and a strong efficacy while limiting its manufacturing impact on the environment.

Other ingredients also shortlisted in the active category include:

  • Adenosilane By Exsymol
  • Aquaboost Natco by Expressions Parfumées
  • Iselight by Chemyunion
  • Patchoul’up™ by Givaudan Active Beauty
  • Restart PRO by Chemyunion
  • Solastemis by Gattefossé
  • SymHair® Thermo by Symrise AG
  • Telessence Breeztel™ by LipoTrue
  • Telophi™ biotech ingredient by Lubrizol
  • Vitamin B12 cryst by DSM Nutritional Products Europe

Innovation Zone Functional Ingredient Award

These ingredients are shortlisted in this category:

DeeperCaps™ by Tagra Biotechnologies: DeeperCapsᵀᴹ are encapsulated pigments dedicated to dark skin tones. Thanks to the sophisticated double-layer microcapsule structure, when the capsules are broken, the pigments are released and adhere effortlessly to skin to give great coverage, with a natural perfect colour-match but without white residue. The cellulose-based polymer shells are flexible, durable, and break only with mechanical application.

EstoGel® Green by PolymerExpert: EstoGel® Green is a new oil gelling agent, of 100% natural origin and COSMOS approved. It is a rheology modifier with suspensive and rheofludifying properties that enables the creation of non-brittle, transparent and sprayable gels with a very pleasant sensory touch.

Hydrolite®7 green by Symrise: Hydrolite® 7 green leads a revolutionary new generation of green multifunctional ingredients. The unique seven-carbon alkanediol comes from 100% bio-based sources, derived from sustainably sourced castor bean oil. The one-of-a-kind multifunctional is a clear, colourless neat ingredient that can go into a variety of traditional or natural/green cosmetic formulations and works with all skin types.

Micromica MK-100K-C by Nagase Personal Care: Micromica MK-100K-C is a new functional base powder developed from upcycling resources. It is produced with an innovative technology utilising potassium fluorosilicate, a by-product of fertilizer to enhance the properties and qualities of conventional base powders.

Natrathix™ bio cellulose by Ashland: Natrathix™ bio cellulose is a nature-derived, biodegradable rheology modifier with suspension capabilities that maintains the emulsion stability of skin and sun care formulations with a desirable skin feel. Developed through market leading expertise in sustainably sourced cellulosics, natrathix™ bio cellulose enables the creation of more natural skin care creams, lotions and gels, including organic and inorganic sunscreen formulations.

PemPur™ Start polymer by Lubrizol Life Science:  A unique natural-derived polymeric emulsifier providing excellent stabilisation capabilities at low use level while offering a fresh and quick break sensory.

Permeacell by Cellicon Lab Inc: PermeaCell is based on peptide, a platform biotechnology that enables the delivery of cargos to dermis for topical-therapeutics. It aims to unlock the potential of topical-therapeutics with a revolutionary delivery-effect.

Rublaleaf™ KCX-5000 by Nagase Personal Care: Rublaleaf™ KCX-5000 is a natural, sustainable sensory enhancer designed to provide qualities and physical effects similar to traditional microplastic beads (MPBs). Rublaleaf™ KCX-5000 was developed with unique technology to form cellulose into spherical beads. It offers three main characteristics and benefits: smooth, silky skin feeling with great spreadability, high naturalness (ISO16128: 100%), and biodegradable (>70% from OECD 301F test).

Also shortlisted in the functional category are:

  • Dowsil™ 979 Emulsion by Dow
  • Permeacell by Cellicon Lab Inc
  • Reflecks™ MD Midnight by Sun Chemical
  • Sensocel®+ by CFF
  • Tegosoft® LO MB by Evonik

Innovation Zone Green Ingredient Award

The ingredient honoured with the Green Ingredient Award makes a proven significant environmental or social difference in the area of sustainability. Nominated ingredients must have been launched over two years ago and must have current applications in cosmetic products.

Shortlisted in this category are:

Biopolymer Hydal PHA – polyhydroxybutyrate by Nafigate Corporation: Hydal PHA is an upcycling ingredient and biopolymer that is produced biotechnologically based on green chemistry and zero-waste manufacturing. The specific form of the biopolymer is P3HB. It is a new functional ingredient that is biocompatible, non-toxic and fully biodegradable. It forms the basis for new formulations as a polymeric matrix.

Ethicskin™ by Provital: Ethicskin™ is a multifunctional active developed and produced around an internationally recognised eco-ethical initiative in Querétaro, Mexico. It represents a step forward towards a fair world and a sustainable future and provides an inclusive pathway to skin homeostasis and preventive ageing.

Melanogray™ by Mibelle Biochemistry: MelanoGray™ is an anti-hair greying essence that is sustainably obtained by upcycling the peel paste from unique organic Chios mandarins. Thanks to its melanin stimulating and antioxidant activity, it markedly reduces the quantity of grey hair in both men and women.

Phytocollagen by Lipoid Kosmetik: PhytoCollagen is an all-natural, COSMOS-certified, plant-based alternative to animal collagen with similar cosmetic benefits. The powerful anti-ageing and moisturizing properties in combination with the vegan and sustainable source make it the perfect collagen alternative for the modern, conscious cosmetic consumer.

Pyr’O by Biolie: Pyr’O is an organic pear extract to replace water in cosmetic formulations.

Also shortlisted in the Green Ingredient category are:

  • Alpin Heilmoor Extract (AHE) by Premium Organic
  • Biocoalgae O3 by Bicosme
  • Chromazone™ by Normactive
  • Granpowder BBP-700 by Grant Industries
  • Plukenetia huayllabambana Seed Oil by CloudForest Peru
  • Resulook™ advanced botanical ingredient by Lipotec Active Ingredients

Innovation Zone Rising Star Award

This award is given to a first- or second-year exhibitor. The company must show its range of offering, innovation, commodity and how solutions-orientated the product range is.

Companies shortlisted for this award include:

Cellicon Lab is a bio-venture company specializing in dermal delivery technology of topical-therapeutics.

EverCare is dedicated to a focus on innovation, supply, and service for the Zano® and Xperse® zinc oxide product lines. With three different grades of zinc oxide powders exhibiting distinct tailored performance in UVB, UVA and transparency, there is a Zano® grade to meet your specific performance needs in sunscreen formulations.

Jinyoungbio manufactures and supplies ceramide, dextrin-based, amino acid-based oil gelling agents, Cholesteryl Liquid Crystal, Lauroyl Lysine, etc. Jinyoungbio is a raw material company that values the environment and the future.

Microphyt is a leading company in the production and marketing of microalgae-based natural active ingredients. With more than 10 years of expertise in the field, Microphyt leverages microalgae’s previously untapped diversity to provide unique solutions for nutrition and wellness.

Nafigate Corporation specialises in white biotechnologies for the upcycling after use of natural resources and other bioprocesses. The company upcycles used natural oils, waste from beer brewing /BSG/, coffee grounds /SCG/ and other circular resources and introduces new ways to decarbonize cosmetics.

Oriel Marine Magnesium Extracts uses patented technology to harvest a rare form of magnesium, minerals and trace elements directly from deep seawater. Six years of independent clinical research has proven synergistic impacts such as improving efficacy of Hyaluronic Acid while up-regulating it’s activity and of multiple Collagen Gene biomarkers while simultaneously improving skin barrier, hydration, scarring and inflammatory impacts.

Scentmate by Firmenich is the first AI-powered platform that can turn a creative idea into a winning fragrance in just a few clicks. Based on exclusive consumer insights and perfumery know-how, Scentmate™ offers its customers access to top expertise and resources and speeds up the process of bringing a product to market.

Sumitomo Pharma Food & Chemical (formerly DSP Gokyo Food & Chemical Co., Ltd.) both manufactures and supplies a wide range of ingredients which are essential to daily life. From Japan, the company provides high-quality and unique original polysaccharides suitable for cosmetic and personal care products.

Tagra Biotechnologies is a world-renowned producer of innovative microencapsulated active compounds, UV filters and pigments. The company’s technology supports stable, effective, and exciting formulations for cosmetic use while its innovative microencapsulation technology enables customers to easily develop innovative formulations and products.

Uute Scientific Oy adds a scientifically proven inactivated microbe extract to cosmetic products from natural soil- and plant-based materials. It mimics the rich biodiversity found in forests, in a safe and regulated form.

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