Gattefossé unveils Solastemis active ingredient at in-cosmetics

Solastemis™, Gattefossé’s new active ingredient of plant origin, offers dermo-cosmetics brands a powerful active ingredient to protect the skin against UV rays. It also responds to the growing needs of consumers concerned about skin health.

A physical barrier between the inside and the outside, the skin is one of the most responsive organs to external aggressions, particularly to UV light. UV strongly impacts the nuclei of skin cells, the DNA, leading to structural and functional alterations of the different layers of the skin.

Research on UVA effects on epidermal stem cells

A few years ago, Gattefossé skin biology team partnered with a research group specialising in the study of genotoxic stress to study the effects of UVA radiation on epidermal stem cells.

Out of this collaboration, it was discovered that epidermal stem cells have a great capacity to fight UVA aggressions, greater than their daughter cells, thanks to more efficient repair mechanisms.1 However, they remain sensitive to UVA induced-DNA damage and lose part of their self-renewal capacity, their so-called “stemness” potential, ultimately related to functional and structural alterations of the epidermis.

Preserving cellular integrity from UVA rays

Gattefossé developed a natural active ingredient named Solastemis which can counteract the undesired consequences of UVA radiation.2 Solastemis is available in South Africa from Carst & Walker.

Solastemis ™ acts at the heart of the epidermis mechanics, by protecting the DNA of keratinocytes from lesions induced by UVA radiation and by boosting endogenous DNA repair system. It preserves the stem cells of the epidermis ensuring proper homeostasis for the skin’s first line of defense.

It also offers a shield for the dermal extra-cellular matrix by protecting key macromolecules (collagen and elastin) from degradation induced by solar exposure.

An expert’s views on Solastemis

Boris Volgelgesang, R&D director cosmetic actives, Gattefossé, comments: “One of the primary strengths of Solastemis is its ability to provide a biological protection against UVA-induced epidermal damage. UVA radiation is commonly associated with photo-ageing, based on its ability to penetrate human skin deeper than UVB radiation, deep down to the dermis.

“However, UVA radiation strongly affects the epidermis, notably by affecting the self-renewal potential of keratinocyte stem-cells, thereby compromising the constant renewal of the epidermis. Solastemis has been shown in vitro to reduce oxidative stress within epidermal keratinocytes and to improve endogenous DNA repair system, both of which contribute to the preservation of epidermal self-renewal potential.

“Interestingly, it provides significant protection to the dermis as well making it a perfect solution for global photo-protection at epidermal and dermal level.”

  1. Metral E. et al., Keratinocyte stem cells are more resistant to UVA radiation than their direct progeny. In : PloS one, 2018, vol. 13, n° 9, p.e0203863. DOI: 10.1371/journal.pone.0203863
  2. Metral E. et al., Long-term Genoprotection Effect of Sechium edule Fruit Extract Against UVA Irradiation in Keratinocytes, Photochemistry and Photobiology, 2018 Mar; 94(2): 343-350

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