Jasmine – a giant in perfumery

By Abby Vorster
Editor

In South Africa, the smell of jasmine is iconic of the start of spring. Its richness and intensity make jasmine one the main foundations in perfumery. Jasmine is a well-loved ingredient and part of many successful and well-loved fragrances in our market.

There are three variants of jasmine used in perfumery. Jasmine de Grasse is the most expensive jasmine fragrance ingredient on the market, Jasminum Sambac is a jasmine that blooms only at night and has a more animalic darker scent, while Jasmine Grandiflorum is the most widely used jasmine in the fragrance industry.

Jasmine Grandiflorum is very rich with an opulent indole aroma. It is harvested in Grasse, France by Robertet to maintain the indigenous culture of the world’s perfume capital while contributing to the sustainability of this historical sector.

Robertet’s history with jasmine began in the 1850s. Since then, jasmine continues to play a key role in Robertet’s portfolio of fragrance ingredients which is available locally from Claman.

Robertet's jasmin- a giant in perfumery at Claman
Jasmine continues to play a key role in Robertet’s portfolio of fragrance ingredients which is available locally from Claman

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Traceable and sustainable supply chain

In Grasse, August marks the start of the jasmine harvest for Robertet’s producers and months of intense work for its experts. In Egypt and India, this harvest takes place between June and November. The jasmine flowers are hand-picked in the morning between 06h00 and 11h00 when the blooms are just opening. The flowers are then transported the same day, before being processed. A harvester picks roughly one kilogram of flowers in two hours, which is on average 10 000 flowers.

With its seed to scent initiative, Robertet has the advantage of controlling each step of the jasmine supply chain from planting and harvesting to extracting and creating. This is essential to guarantee the highest levels of quality needed for fragrance and perfumery applications. It also allows for full traceability of certain ingredients and practices.

A jasmine-rose accord forms the heart of numerous fine fragrances

A rich and intense aroma

The scent of jasmine is described as fresh, floral, powdery, warm and rich. It possesses a waxy, almost herbaceous and fruity base note with tea like qualities. The indolic notes can be noticeable depending on the time, location and weather of the harvest.

Jasmine is often known for its animalic nature, which can be very polarising, yet offers a sensuous profile highly appreciated by many.

Did you know

As a symbol of beauty and femininity, jasmine has crossed borders and eras to become one of the most used ingredients in perfumery, alongside the rose.

A jasmine-rose accord forms the heart of numerous fine fragrances. These two florals are some of the most expensive and most used notes in perfumery.

Jasmine can also be used as a top note to offer a very natural floral facet, with subtle freshness. In fine fragrance, it is often combined with other florals, such rose, lilac, lily of the valley and honeysuckle.

Claman – www.claman.co.za

Robertet – www.robertet.com

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P&C Africa Q3 2022

P&C Review Africa Q3 brings you specialist skin care solutions for the African market. Read about packaging trends in the pharma industry, laboratory technology news and why jasmine is still a giant in perfumery.

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