The anhydrous jojoba gel matrix is another super product from Vantage’s large basket of jojoba offerings. It is available in two variants: Jojoba Glaze HV (high viscosity) and Jojoba Glaze LV (low viscosity).
Jojoba Glaze™, consisting of over 88% jojoba oil, is a superior emollient that provides gloss and moisturisation to skin and hair. It also provides stability and emollience in the oil base of an emulsion without feeling tacky on the skin. Because it is so substantive, Jojoba Glaze is also an ideal ingredient for long-wearing colour cosmetics.
The gelling agents used in Jojoba Glaze are combination of two polymers:
- an ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer
- a butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer.
Gelling occurs as the styrene portions remain intact. The insoluble styrene blocks combine to form a microscopic network of enclosed oil molecules. Jojoba Glaze is excellent for suspending pigments and particles of glitter and pearlescence. This makes it possible to create a variety of aesthetically pleasing, novel skin and hair care products. The ability to suspend particles like sugar and salt, combined with its substantive emolliency after rinsing, make it an excellent base for shower scrub products.
Improved skin hydration
A clinical study with 18 panellists aged 34 to 69 was carried out to evaluate how Jojoba Glaze LV would affect hydration and TEWL when post added to a mass market skin care lotion claiming 24 hour moisturisation. Hydration on the test sites (legs) was evaluated by Corneometer. It was found that a 2% addition of Jojoba Glaze LV to the lotion improved skin hydration by 20% over the mass market lotion when measured 4 hours after application. Additionally, TEWL was measured using a Tewameter and demonstrated a further decrease in TEWL by 46% over the mass market lotion when measured 24 hours after application.
Functions and benefits
Jojoba Glaze is a gel matrix network with varying viscosities. It is suitable for high gloss products and offers excellent oxidative stability at high temperatures. It gives a non-tacky skin feel, which is soft and velvety. It also offers substantive emolliency after rinsing and does not suppress foaming.
Click here to download the Frozen Lip Bath formulation featuring Jojoba Glaze HV BF. This emollient lip oil with a cooling sensation leaves lips feeling smooth and hydrated. Although the BF version is slightly more yellowish, it will not impact the organoleptic properties of the product.
Use levels
- For structural characteristics: >50% HV
- For suspension: >55% to 65% HV (particle dependent)
- Skin care emulsions: 2% to 5% LV
Recommended applications
- Anhydrous formulations (HV Version): lip glosses, lip sticks, scrubs, gelled or thickened oils, suspended glitters or colours and finger nail and cuticle care products.
- Skin care: creams, lotions, facial primers, serums. Sun care and after sun products
- Hair Care: styling products – pomades and serums as well as ethnic hair care products for softness and shine.
Glazes can be mixed directly with most emollient esters. It is best to add glazes to the oil phase of emulsions to ensure full compatibility and dispersion. It is recommended to heat glazes to 70°C when combining with natural oils.
Compatibility, stability and solubility
The gel structuring and suspension properties of Jojoba Glaze HV and Jojoba Glaze HV-BF may be affected by fragrances. Formulation stability testing should be conducted with and without fragrance.
The product will solidify at temperatures 15ºC and below. Glazes are insoluble in water and alcohols. they are compatible with most emollient esters, hydrocarbon emollients and cyclomethicone.
